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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.